Sunday, 20 March 2016

20. Wool becomes Cloth

Bishop Lane Staith in Hull, looking east towards the River Hull.


For most of the 14th Century England was at war with France, a situation that brought opportunities for traders but inconveniences as well.  As the conflict wore on heavy taxes were levied to pay for it, particularly on exports of wool.  By the 1370s Hull’s merchants were also facing difficulties due to new regulations which stipulated that all wool had to be traded via Calais rather then sent direct to its destination.  As wool was mostly sold to Flanders, for those not operating from southern ports this increased journey times and costs.


Ten years later merchants were faced with the loss of their best customers when Flanders entered the war on the side of the French and banned imports of English wool.  So grave a threat was this to the entire English economy, that a military expedition was launched in response and the Bishop of Norwich, Henry Dispenser, volunteered to be in charge.  He had recently had tremendous fun leading troops against rebels during the Peasants Revolt and now wished to tackle some foreign enemies. 

Dispenser’s lack of real military experience concerned some, including the new Lord Chancellor Michael de la Pole, however parliament saw advantages to his leadership.  The bishop had got permission from the Pope to call his enterprise a crusade, which not only brought holy blessings but also meant that the clergy would have to pay for it rather then parliament.  Dispenser landed on the continent in May 1383 eager for battle.  Unfortunately God must have not have got the memo that this was an official crusade as although Dispenser initially met with some success, ultimately his army was routed by a French force at Ypes.

True salvation was to arrive through enterprise and not the sword.  An abundance of wool encouraged small-scale cloth manufacture, with Yorkshire emerging as one of the main centres of production.  Clothiers used agents to distribute the wool to villages. It was then worked on mostly by women, who either operated individually in their homes or in small groups in workshops.  Spinsters spun the wool then weavers created cloths ranging from rough russets to softer wools.  The finished product was then dyed, with blue being the most popular colour sold at York during the 1394-5 season.

Products from this burgeoning Yorkshire cloth industry where then exported via the nearby port of Hull, which was ideally situated for access to purchasers in Holland, Germany and the Baltic states.  While wool exports declined steeply, exports of cloth from Hull rose from single figures in the 1350s to a peak of 6500 in 1429.  By 1430 England as a whole was exporting more cloth then wool.

Photo: Bishop Lane Staith, looking east towards the River Hull.


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